Saturday, November 3 – Tom Point Creek (Mile 495) to Beaufort (Mile 534):

            Remember, when I wrote yesterday that Mother Nature would have something dastardly in store for us because I said that going through Charleston was a piece of cake?  Well, read on…

            But, first, let’s go back to Tom Point Creek.  I can’t begin to describe how lovely, peaceful, and serene it was.  The evening sunset brought us a calm completely quiet night.  We sat up on the flybridge and watched two hungry pelicans fly low over the water in search of their evening meal, and we could actually hear them flying.  I don’t think I have ever “heard” such quiet.  When we talked, we whispered.  We watched several dolphins swim around us as they looked for their dinner.  We woke up to no wind, the creek was like a sheet of glass, not a ripple anywhere, the sunrise was unbelievable, and once again, we had dolphins swimming around us in search of breakfast, and a heron squawking angrily at them.  I actually thought I could live here…and the best part…no helicopters!!

            The day continued on in pretty much the same way.  The fact that there was no wind was a welcome change.  We left Tom Point Creek and headed down the North Edisto River to Dawho Creek then to North Creek.  At Red 141 we turned right into Watts Cut, and then into the South Edisto River to Fenwick Cut.  From Fenwick Cut we turned into the Ashepoo River and then into the Ashepoo Coosaw Cutoff.  We were firmly warned not to go into the Ashepoo Coosaw Cutoff at low tide, so Bob had planned our journey there to coincide with high tide, and we had no trouble.  As there is such a large tidal range here, you could see 4’ of water at low tide and you would be aground!  We had 13’ for the most part, and all along this stretch there are very few houses, only beautiful marshes and grasses.  You all know, that this is not to be used for navigational purposes…

            Along about this time, I changed back into summer clothes, as it was 75°. 

            The Ashepoo Coosaw Cutoff dumps you into the Coosaw River, then you turn into Brickyard Creek to get to Beaufort.  We passed some beautiful historic homes on the waterfront, and I was looking forward to getting settled in the marina and going exploring (yeah, right).  We had to go through the Ladies Island Swing Bridge, and, fortunately, it was high enough that we didn’t have to wait for an opening, but as you go through there is a big sign that warns you that there is a strictly enforced “No Wake” Zone between the swing bridge and the next bridge and violators will be fined $1,025.00 and/or spend thirty days in jail.  Needless to say, we went slow!  The marina was just past Beaufort and beside the next bridge so we called them on Channel 16, and asked for directions into our slip. 

            Now - what comes next was all really my fault because I severely displeased Mother Nature, and I take complete responsibility, and promise never to do it again.

            Before going into our slip (and I wouldn’t normally talk about this, but this is an exception) we decided to request a pump out (don’t ask me to explain that – just use your imagination if you don’t know what this is), and we are directed to the pump-out dock.  (Mother Nature is now joyfully rubbing her hands together.)  There is some current, but Bob is handling the boat just fine, and there are dock hands to help with the lines.  So, we get all tied up, the dock guy hands Bob the hose, we get ready, and Bob yells, “OK,” and then the !@#$% hits the fan…er, I mean, boat.  All over the boat, including Bob, and I hear, “Liz, Liz, come here!!” (I think there may have been a couple of expletives after “here”).  I won’t go into any more gory details, but we finally got everything cleaned up, and I know I am going to have to do laundry this afternoon, and the washer better have a button for “hot” water!  Well, I am glad that’s over with, but, no, Mother Nature isn’t through with us yet.

            The nice dockhand, who also happens to be the manager, gives us directions to our slip, but we misunderstand…actually, I have to say here, that sometimes it is difficult to figure out exactly where they are talking about…and we start down the wrong section of docks.  We see the dockhand waving madly at us that we have gone the wrong way, and we realize we need to back up – with lots of current, and lots of boats all around us.  Now Mother Nature is jumping up and down gleefully.  So Bob starts to back the boat up and turn around, but, unfortunately, there is a boat in the way.  Darn.  And the two boats, ours, and the other one, decide they want to become best friends.  Now I weigh about 100 pounds…ok, maybe a little more if I’ve had a big breakfast, and there is no way, none, that I could keep our boat from kissing the other boat, even though I am pushing with all my might, and then I hear, “CRACK.”  Aarrghghgaarghg…that’s not what I really said, but, again, you can use your imagination.  So after the cracking noise, the two boats decided that they didn’t really want to be best friends anymore, and we continued on around to the proper dock.  I was all for hightailing it out of Dodge and heading back north, but I wasn’t driving the boat.  So it appears that the only damage that was done, was our boat cracked a plastic vent on the other boat (no damage to us at all), and very shortly thereafter, they came a knock at our door, and the owner of the other boat introduced himself.  He and his family were live aboard’s, and he gave us a verbal discourse about current in this area.  He was actually very nice, and assured us that after we left the middle of Georgia we should start to see less current again, and would we please give him a check for $150.00.  Well, that seemed more than reasonable, and I promised Mother Nature that I would never mock another boater for running into another boat or a dock, and I would never say that such and such an area was a “piece of cake.”

Sunset at Tom Point Creek

            Well, it’s a little while later, the clothes are done – the laundry did have hot water, and a hot dryer cycle, the marina has a restaurant here – there’s a band playing tonight, and I’m thinking something cold and alcoholic.