Saturday, November 10, 2012


Saturday, November 10 – Cattle Pen Creek (Mile 625) to Wally’s Leg (Mile 665):
            One of the books Bob bought on selected anchorages along the waterway suggested putting out a second anchor in Cattle Pen Creek, but we opted not to do that as the current didn’t seem to be too strong, but before we went to bed, we decided that we better check on how the boat was holding in the anchorage.  Well, when we opened the door and went out, we were awestruck - the night sky was just spectacular!  We have beautiful night skies at home, but I don’t think I have ever seen anything quite like this.  I don’t know what phase the moon was in, but when we looked up, the sky was a cloudless jet black with millions (probably trillions) of stars glittering with no moonlight whatsoever to hinder the beauty of the darkness and the stars.  It looked like the sky has been dusted with diamond sequins – some looking so close, it seemed as though you could reach out and touch them.  Cattle Pen Creek turned out to be a beautiful anchorage with an added surprise of a gorgeous night.
            This morning dawned sunny and calm again, and we woke on a falling, almost low tide.  We have to go through the Little Mud River today, and the Waterway Guide says this river is one of the shallowest on the waterway, and we were also warned by everyone we came across that you can’t get through this area at low tide!  We plan our departure for around 9:30 a.m., and have breakfast – a fried egg with one of Bob’s favorite pastries from Publix!  One of my favorite things to do is to have coffee up on the flybridge before the day’s activities start, and this morning we had time to do just that.  We didn’t see any dolphins in this creek, but a pair of pelicans flew low over the water in search of their breakfast.  I keep looking for alligators, but never see any!  I’m just guessing, but I suppose when you see birds strolling along the banks searching rather nonchalantly for their morning meal, it’s probably a good bet alligators are not around.
            It is time to get going, and as Bob pulls up the chain and anchor, it is coated with more mud than I have ever seen.  I’m thinking Cattle Pen Creek…wonder where it got that name…so much mud…cattle…mud?...hmmm…where do these places get their names?
            We, of course, don’t want to get to the Little Mud River before mid-rising tide, which is around 2:00 p.m., so Bob opts to drive slowly, which is another of my favorite things to do – basically – meander (sailboat speed).
We leave the anchorage and return to Johnson Creek, which enters the South Newport River.   Our entire trip, today, is a test of your ability to pay close attention to the marks and avoid shoals, spits, and “lumps” and stay in the channel!   The South Newport River empties into Sapelo Sound (and, yes, I can see the ocean clearly again).  We had no trouble in this body of water, though – the wind and water were both calm, but the current was whizzing us along!  However, had the day not been so nice, once again, we could have been in for a rough ride.  We did see one poor soul, who (for the life of me I can’t figure out how he missed the mark) had run aground so hard, the bow of his boat was out of the water.  He must have been on the edge of a shoal, and when he hit it the front of the boat made it, but the rear end didn’t!  If you weren’t paying close attention today, it would have been a great opportunity for Soundings Magazine to do a story on you – but not one that you would have wanted to be mentioned in!
We still see lots of dolphins, but they don’t play in our wake – they are all business, just cruising and looking for meals.  We did hear on the radio that someone had seen a Right whale.  Lucky them!  For several days now, we have noticed flocks of seagulls following our boat and others.  I guess they are trying to get a break by flying in our slipstream.
From Sapelo Sound you take a left into the Front River and this starts you on another narrow, skinny, thin voyage.  You wind down Old Teakettle Creek into the North River, and then you hit Little Mud River.  While we were in the North River we noticed a beautiful Trumpy yacht speeding (yes, it doesn’t seem like Trumpy Yachts should speed – should be more like cruising gracefully, but this one was speeding).  As a matter of fact, this same boat was in the Isle of Hope Marina with us, so we were surprised that we saw the boat again.   Whoever the captain was, he was going way too fast without much regard for other boats around him.  I would like to assume that the boat was just being delivered by someone who had been hired by the owner, and that the real owner would not drive this beautiful boat so recklessly.   He passed us, and we thought he was going on out to the ocean, but at the last minute he turned right, and we knew he was headed to the Little Mud River.  We knew if he could get through there, so could we!  As we navigated this area, and we were going very slowly, we heard a sailboat calling other boaters in the river that they had just been pushed out of the narrow channel by a speeding Trumpy, and they were now aground!  Everyone wanted to help them, but were too afraid of leaving the channel and getting grounded themselves.  Shame on that captain!  Fortunately, we were on a rising tide, and as we left the Little Mud River and turned into Buttermilk Sound, we could look back and see that the sailboat had been able to get off and was on its way again.  From Buttermilk Sound we went into the Mackay River, and into Wally’s Leg where we are anchored for the night.
Where do they get these names?  I’m not even going to take a guess about that one!
We are exhausted - it seemed like a very long day.  Bob is willing to make BBQ chicken on the grill, and I will come up with something to go with it.  It promises to be another beautiful night, but I am not sure we will have the energy to stick our heads out the door tonight.  Tomorrow we plan on going to Jekyll Island, which we have been told is totally awesome with lots of hiking and biking trails and wildlife galore.
Sunset at Cattle Pen Creek
More on that later…

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