Thursday, April 25, 2013 – St. Augustine (Mile 778) to Fernandina (Mile 717):

            We had to get up at a reasonable time this morning because we had to pull around to the fuel dock to get gas.  This marina contracts with a fuel company, and they bring a truck to you, fill up your boat, and you pay the wholesale price.  The price of the diesel was $3. 39 including tax!!  You just have to make arrangements the day before, which we did.  The average price up and down the Florida coast for diesel is about $4.30.   We saved almost $1.00 a gallon!!  Bob was really happy, and I thought I might be able to go out to dinner again considering what we saved!

            So this morning as we were hurriedly finishing up breakfast, Bob says to me, “Well, there are going to be a couple of very skinny places we have to get through today, and we have no choice but to go through at low tide, and the Cruisers’ Net website is indicating that trawlers are running aground.”

            “What??!!  Trawlers are running aground?!  We have a trawler!”  I decided right then to get on the phone and text our sailing friends who are way ahead of us and ask them about these places.  One is in Sawpit Creek, and the other is in the Amelia River.  And they said, “Yep, you shouldn’t go through there at low tide.”   Aaarrggh.  I’m thinking now that this would be the perfect day to finally run aground!  Have I angered the Sea Gods lately?  I can’t remember. 

            So while we were getting gas, I thought it would be a good idea to suggest that maybe we stay in St. Augustine another day and get a very early start in the morning, as it was getting later and later because of fueling the boat and that would mean arriving at these places later and later and closer and closer to dead low tide.  But Bob was antsy to get going, and the weather was nice, so we got on our way in spite of my protestations.

            First up we had to wait for the Bridge of Lions (which is a beautiful bridge with the skyline of St. Augustine in the background) to open, and we were one of several boats waiting, but that was no problem.  When we came down here in November, the weather was awful (cold, raining, and windy), and to get from the Tolomato River into the Matanzas River and through the Bridge of Lions was very confusing to me, but on the way back, it was quite clear which marks you had to follow.  The boats that went through the bridge with us kept on heading out into the ocean.  At least the water is deeper there!

Leaving St. Augustine

            So far the weather is sunny and warm!  As on the way down here, as you travel the waterway, there are marshes on both sides of you, and little fishing boats are surrounded as they fish among the grasses.  So far there is lots of water in this part of the waterway.  Once we get into the Tolomato River, we are mostly all alone – no other boats seem to be heading north – just the little local fishing boats.  At one point along the waterway, there is a sign that says, “congested area next six miles,” and as we travel in here with marshes and forest on one side, and housing developments on the other side, I swear I can smell wood fires burning.  We travel back through Cabbage Swamp, the Jacksonville Beach area and along Pablo Creek.  As we travel through Pablo Creek, the current gets stronger and stronger.  I guess that’s because the water is rushing out and getting ready to deliver low tide to us!  Just past Mile 745 we had to pass under two bridges where the current was wicked.  I made a note in the chart that the whole area between mile 745 and the St. John’s River was strange and awful, with the water acting very oddly.  In addition, the weather is starting to deteriorate with clouds coming in and the wind picking up.

            We crossed the St. John’s River with no problem, although we did see a large freighter type vessel cross our path.  If I remember correctly this is where there was a sign on the other side coming out of Sisters Creek that admonished you not to tarry in the river as there were potentially large commercial vessels traveling in the river.  As soon as you enter Sisters Creek, there is a low bridge that opens on demand, but we were able to get under without an opening. 

            Sisters Creek goes past the Fort George River and into Sawpit Creek – our first major challenge.  Bob is really trying to “book it” so we can, hopefully, make these shallow areas before actual low tide.  However, we are watching the banks on either side of the channel and we are seeing more and more of the shoreline and the channel is getting narrower and narrower.  When we get to Green markers 49 and 49A we were told to give them a wide berth and hug the shore, which we did, and Lo! And Behold! We had plenty of water, but I could see where if you were not being very careful and not paying attention you would get into trouble!

            As we were getting ready to leave Sawpit Creek and cross Nassau Sound into the South Amelia River, and I was starting to breathe a sigh of relief, what starts to come down the Sawpit Creek, but a TUG PUSHING A BARGE!!  I swallow my panic, and I call the barge on the radio to find out which side he wants us to pass him on, but he doesn’t answer me.  I don’t understand why he isn’t answering me, but then I realize that when we were navigating the marks 49 and 49 A Bob turned the radio down so he didn’t have to listen to the chatter so he could concentrate better!   Aaaarrrghghgh! I turn the radio up in time to hear the captain of the tug say it would be fine to pass port to port.  Ok that’s great – it appears we have enough room to get by each other.  And Bob and I got by the barge ok, but the barge promptly RAN AGROUND!  My eyeballs are popping out of my head, and I think I can read the mind of the tugboat captain, and it’s not printable.  The only consolation I could possibly think of was that as the tide changed he would float off pretty soon.  But it was awful.  Plus the fact that the tugboat looked brand new.  I have never seen such a glistening tugboat ever.  Well, I put my eyeballs back in their sockets, and decided to close my eyes for the rest of the trip.

The barge coming toward us!

The barge running aground!

            We crossed Nassau Sound and went up into the South Amelia River with no problem, except that there was a skinny spot where a sand bar stuck its nose out, but we made our way around it and on up to Kingsley Creek, and then into the Amelia River where we had to face the next challenging marks.  Well, let’s put it this way, the whole entire Amelia River was scary, and the radio chatter was disconcerting.  Boaters were calling Tow Boat U.S. for local knowledge as to how to get around the marks, boaters were sitting in the water waiting for high tide, and at one point we saw 5’ on the depth sounder, but we got through ok.  I held my breath for most of the trip, and I don’t have any more fingernails, but we didn’t run aground!  At one point I heard a conversation between a boater and Tow Boat U.S. that went something like this – the lady was calling for help, and the tow boat operator told her that he was very busy, and that if she would just sit tight (ha ha) the tide would come in and she would get off shortly, but as he came back around if she was still there he would try and help her.  So she said, “Oh, so you are in shallow water?” and the tow boat operator replied, “No ma’am, I am in deep water – you are in shallow water!”  So I guess he told her!  You hear everything on the radio!

            So my advice to anybody would be, “Don’t go anywhere in the Amelia River at low tide – ever!”  Once we left the Amelia River and headed into Kingsley Creek, you have to pass through a railroad bridge, which is always open unless there is a train coming.  Well, guess what?!  Today, there was a train coming, and we had to hang around in this narrow channel with the current running to wait for the train to pass and the bridge to open.  It wasn’t all that bad, but I thought that was the icing on the cake.

Another example of what will happen if you don't pay attention!

Low tide

            By this time we were exhausted and had decided to stop at Fernandina at the marina where we stayed on the way down, so we called them and were very lucky to get a reservation.  As a matter of fact, they had to put us at the fuel dock for the night, and we promised to leave the next morning.  Well, once past the railroad bridge, it is just a short way to the marina, but it was in here that we saw the skinniest water.  I thought how ironic it would be if we made it through all the areas we were warned would be a problem only to run aground right near the marina!  But we eased our way around the marks and finally got tied up for the night.  We didn’t get here until almost 5:00 p.m.  This was a really long day.  We are too tired to cook, and too tired to go out, but I guess I will rustle up something on the stove.  I’m thinking a gin and tonic will help.

            If today is any indication, I suppose I will have some stories on the way back home after all!  We have traveled 173 miles in the last three days!  Tomorrow we will be in Georgia in the morning!